#Stiles and rails proportions full size#
#Stiles and rails proportions full#

The cabinets that were in the home were hideous, with 3.5' of face frame exposed in some places, and mostly 2' (too much).

#Stiles and rails proportions full#

I am not going for a full Euro look (somewhere in between). This includes doors on adjacent cabinets. Just remember the goal is usually to have an equal space (reveal) between all doors. I agree with others who suggest you look at frameless if you want reveals of less than 1/2' Sorry I am using mm instead of inches. Because the 25mm stiles are always paired with the next cabinet’s stile they are strong enough. When I first thought this up (two or three weeks ago) I was worried about the 25mm stiles being too narrow and bowing. If I want more or less reveal I simply change the hinges to half over-lay or use a super overlay hinge (25mm overlay). These frame sizes with full overlay hinges create 14mm reveals for every door regardless of its situation. My mid-rail or mid-stiles are 50mm, my finished end stiles are 32mm, when two cabinets meet the stiles are 25mm. Nowadays I only overlay 18mm or 9mm (full overlay Euro hinges or half overlay). When I learned (early 80’s) two inch frames and 1' overlay made for simple math. Like Contributor F I believe the 2' is to make it easier for the math. As times have changed with computer generated lists, it really makes no difference - just something to consider. I was once told that the 2' FF width came from simplifying the math that goes with figuring cut lists. My standard stiles/rails are 1 3/4', with 1 1/4' bottom and mid-rails. Use stick-type Euro hinges with face frame plates, and you can cover 3/4' of the FF. The trend toward the 1 1/2' stiles and rails that Contributor B talks about is probably about shops trying to get more yield from their lumber. It is all about how much wood you want to see to get the look you are after. Face frame width is a matter of aesthetics. There are really no rules about face frame width. It also solves all of your hinging issues. There is nothing wrong with using 1.5' stiles and two pocket-holes. I would suggest you get a European hinge catalog and study the specs before making your frame width decision. By doing this you can reduce the gaps to 1/8' or less. If you really want small gaps between doors, consider building the cabinet frameless and using European hinges.

The 1-1/2' frame width is used very frequently with a pocket screw joint with absolutely no problems. A 1/4' reveal is typically the minimum gap you can have between doors that will permit the hinge to turn the door without hitting an adjoining door or wall. If you make the frame 1-1/2' wide you can easily use a 1-1/4' overlay European hinge leaving 1/4' exposed frame. The frame width does indeed vary from one region of the country to another.

Consider this if you plan to use a European concealed hinge: If you make your frames 2' wide, the most you will be able to cover will be 1-1/2' (leaving 1/2' exposed frame). While making your frame width decision it will be very important to consider the type of hinges you plan to use. Are there other folks using two screws on a 1.75 wide FF? I also ripped a piece 1.5' wide but that might get a little hairy trying to use two pocket screws in something that narrow. After reading the posts here I see there are no strict guidelines to face frame width (2' is popular, not sure why). It seems to be alright, but I didn't know if I was missing something. That picture is a test of the two sizes (2' and 1.75').

#Stiles and rails proportions full size#

Has anyone modified the two inch wide FF to 1.75 with success using the Kreg Pocket Screw system? I hate to stray from the instructions but I am looking for less face frame exposed.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image I am a newby and have read 'Building Kitchen Cabinets' by Udo Schmidt and am ready to begin my first kitchen project.